Like most of the great and historic producers of Mendoza, Benegas has broadened its horizons to take in the amazing vineyard locations of the Uco Valley, in this Gualtallary. A brutal generalisation would be to say that down here at higher altitudes and with very different soil compositions, there is a general sense of extra freshness and a linear quality in the wines that is a relatively recent phenomenon. This is also bound up, of course, in the individual intentions of winemakers and, even more, as part of a general stylistic migration to a lighter touch – less extraction, less oak, higher acidity, but retaining superb concentration. With Benegas, we cannot think of another producer who has embraced this ‘new’ resource whilst retaining their hallmark style. Thus, with this seriously impressive Malbec, extremely dense and almost foreboding in its youth, a traditional Mendoza Lujan producer has created a wine showing seamless stylistic evolution, the Uco valley vineyards being interpreted in a manner true to Benegas roots, so to speak, and also enabling a whole new level of expression. This Malbec really is where’s it’s at in Mendoza these days; an exceptional wine.
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