JiJiJi Chenin Blanc 2016

JiJiJi Chenin Blanc 2016

It's not every day a wine gives you a hard slap in the face then tries to stick its tongue down your throat. That's exactly what happened the first time we tasted this citrus temptress. Some early picking partly explains the delicious dry slap (and low alcohol of just 10.5%), with whole bunches pressed and juice fermented in cement eggs, with extended lees contact and no adjustments whatsoever, no filtering or fining before bottling. Anyway, Chenin can't achieve what would normally be regarded as 'full ripeness' on these very high altitude wines.

The wine is quite cloudy and virtually sulphur free, with aromas of green cider apples and wild herbs; arid rather than dry, and yet with a beguiling richness somehow on the palate, a lovely fine waxy texture. All in all, it's a bloody miracle the wine is drinkable let alone utterly delicious, which it is. Another uncompromising statement from the wonderfully humble and talented husband and wife team of Gerardo and Andrea Michelini.

Don't dally, they don't make a lot of this.

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